Puerto Galera's reefs jut out into the waters of the Verde Island passage.
This deep trench plunges in places to over a kilometer deep and funnels
cold waters and strong currents straight across the Puerto reefs. These
cold, nutrient laden waters nourish the reef which in turn supports more
than 2500 species, probably more than any other area in the Philippines.
Increasingly strict controls over all type of fishing have further protected
the fragile ecosystem. Treasure hunters from all over the world flock
to the Philippines in search of Spanish Galleons. In the 'Port Of the
Galleons' the true treasure of the underwater world can be seen by anyone
with a mask and snorkel.
The Sites
Puerto Galera is
home to over thirty dive sites. Most are situated less than ten minutes
by boat from Frontier scuba. Slightly further away are the popular day
trips of Verde Island and Chicken Feather Islands. Most of the sites
start at 5m or less and so suit all levels of divers. For the more experienced
there are challenging deep dives and high voltage drift dives. There
is an extensive range of nitrox and technical dives
suitable
for the experienced tech diver
Escarceo Point (5-28m) / Air / Nitrox
A truly gorgeous
series of dives, boasting some of the best coral in the area. The shallows
are home to huge table and Staghorn corals spread to catch the suns
rays. These corals have been spared the coral bleaching that has devastated
reefs in many other parts of the world. This is probably due to up-wellings
in the Verde Island passage cooling the reef. Above the corals hover
fish in there thousands, rubys and sapphires all dancing as one. Worth
more than just one visit this area is a favourite of both new and experienced
divers. Photographers can find endless subjects for wide angle and macro.
Just off Escarceo Point is the short swim through known as The
Hole in the Wall. Here large schools of drummer and sweetlips play in
the current. Sheltering behind a coral wall, divers kneel on the sand
allowing the fish to come ever closer. They seem unafraid of the divers
as they tumble in and out of the current. From time to time larger pelagics
such as Tuna. ,Mackeral and Trevally dash overhead.
The
Canyons (28-30m) / Air / Nitrox
Strong currents
make this perhaps the best of Puerto's best dive sites. With the current
ripping it is an electric dive to challenge even the most jaded of divers.
Drifting past the Hole in the Wall, at 28 m/ 90ft, you enter a series
of three bowls. In them you can find many species of Sweetlips, snapper
and drummer, all in large schools. If that isn't enough there are also
many emperor angelfish, clown triggerfish and lionfish. Overhead, wheel
schools of Jacks, Trevally and Barracuda. Increasingly, even more
massive animals are being seen above the Canyons. Manta, Thresher Shark
and Hammerhead have all been seen there this year. Standing at the end
of the Canyons is large coral-encrusted anchor, all that remains of
a once proud Spanish Galleon, marking
the end of a world-class dive.
The canyons is best made on nitrox - the extended bottom time gives
you a great chance to explore and take in all the sights.
The Chinese Junk (18m)
/ Air
This wooden wreck
lies at 18m/60 ft and is home to friendly schools of Batfish and Surgeonfish.
In the forward hold are two resident moray eels, while on the deck Lionfish
and Scorpionfish patiently wait for a meal to swim too close. At night
the wreck again attracts a lot of life. Buried in the sand can be found
the rare Stargazer. A mouth and two eyes point towards the stars, while
a tongue flicks in and out - a lure to attract over curious fish. Swimming
up the reef from the junk there is an area of seagrass at 5m/15ft. This
harbours many exotic fish rarely seen in other areas. Our experienced
guides may be able to show you such oddities as the Short Finned Dragon
Fish, Harlequin Ghost pipefish or even the Cockatoo Waspfish.
Further west is a small part of the cockpit of a WW2 fighter. Sometimes
frogfish can be found sheltering behind the pilots head rest. This area
highlights more than any other area what makes Puerto so special. Many
dive destinations have big fish, others beautiful coral and others great
variety, but it is rare to find all three in one place.
Fishbowl
and Horsehead (40
- 80m) / Air / Nitrox / Tech/Trimix
One of the deeper
dives in the area, this dive is best done by the more experienced divers.
The bowl lies between 40 and 48 metres and contains schools of snapper,
sweetlips, batfish and whitetip reef sharks. Strong current can make
it difficult to stop and look at the fish. To protect the reef some
divers chose to use a reef hook. This simple hook and line allows the
diver to hang higher above the reef without expended more energy, or
kicking the fragile corals. Further on past the fishbowl is the Horsehead
reef. Huge fan corals spread across the current and schools of larger
fish abound. Sweetlips, batfish and Jacks are all common in this area
which is of course named after a rock that looks like a horse's head
(you guessed it!). In the past few months nitrox and technical divers
have adopted this site as one of the best places to see big fish. Recent
dives (March 2003) have seen schools of Barracuda, Manta and a large
hammerhead shark. Sit on the bottom with your twins and the action is
just overhead!
Shark Caves (26-28m)
/ Air / Nitrox
The Shark Caves
are ledges at a depth of about 27 metres, a place of rest for many species
of fish, including Whitetip Reef Sharks. Many divers see their first
shark in the caves and are amazed by the beauty and grace of these so-called
maneaters. The belief that all sharks are dangerous can clearly be seen
to be a myth. The truth lies somewhere between myth and reality. While
all large wild animals are potentially dangerous, they usually are not
aggressive. In fact reef sharks can be seen in many areas of the
Philippines and are usually more scared of man than he is of them.
Lying in the mouth of the cave it is possible to approach within a couple
of metres of the sharks. If they become disturbed they simply swim away.
On the days that there are no sharks there blue spotted stingrays can
be found on the sand and octopus are commonly seen on the reef. About
90 metres from the caves stands the atoll. This building sized rock
harbours many moray eels, lionfish, scorpionfish and octopus. Blue triggerfish
hover above the rock and duck into holes at the slightest sign of danger.
Kilima Drift (12-50m)
/ Air / Nitrox /
Tech
At times Puerto
gets strong currents which make for electric drift dives. Kilima drift
is perhaps the most famous of all. From Sinandigan wall to Escarceo
Point can take as little as ten minutes on a fast day, making it one
of the fastest drift dives around. Zooming along the undulating bottom,
divers are treated to displays from hunters in the current. Schools
of Barraccuda, trevally, mackerel and even the odd black tip reef shark
hang out waiting for the food to come to them. One of the most popular
routes goes past Pink Wall. Here the current picks up and the reef becomes
a blur. Schools of drummer and Jacks often swim up from the deeper water
at this point to feed. Further on a sharp left turn takes you out of
the current and into the more tranquil area of the Hole In the Wall.
Like many of the more ferocious drift dives in Puerto Galera this dive
is best done in small groups and only with local guides.
Pink Wall
(10-16m)
/ Air
This is one of the
more popular night dives in the area. During the day the overhanging
Pink Wall is mauve, but it's soft pink colours are best appreciated
at night in the glow of a flashlight. There are many smaller fish here
to provide food for the predators. Trumpetfish, stonefish, lionfish
and moray eels all patrol the area. Occasional at night can be found
bamboo cat sharks hiding under corals. One of the beauties of night
diving is that colours are so intense in the beam of the lights Larger
cousins of nudibranches come out to play, deep purple pleurobranchs
and the gorgeous Spanish dancer.. It is also possible to get closer
to many species of fish at night .Large pufferfish hide in hollows on
the reef and can be observed at close range, although it is best not
to disturb them. Moray eels can also be found out and hunting. Unlike
other species of fish they have no swim bladder. Unable to make themselves
neutrally buoyant they glide along the bottom in search of food.
Sinandigan
Wall (5-50m)
/ Air / Nitrox /
Tech
This wall drops off from
five metres to about thirty. It is home to a huge range of invertebrates
and so is popular with both naturalists and photographers. Dives here
often turn into nudibranch hunts. Nudi ( naked), Branches (lungs) are
brightly coloured sea slugs that eat sponges. Many fish avoid eating
sponges because of the powerful chemicals in their cells. The nudibranches
can also store these chemicals in their own bodies making them bad to
eat. Hence the bright colour is a simple warning sign 'Bad To Eat'.
In the shallows the wall is covered in pastel coloured soft corals.
The flower like arms of the soft coral all beat in unison filtering
the water of it's plankton. Cuttlefish are also common in this
area. Like chameleons they have cells in their skin which enables them
to change colour to blend in with their surroundings. As divers approach
they become stressed causing patterns to flash in waves across their
skin.
Wreck Point
(5-28m)
/ Air
So named after a
luckless freighter whose bare ribs can be seen on the beach at low tide.
Further down at 28 metres are the two hulls of a sailing catamaran,
sunk by the dive centres back in 1993. On the hull are myriad colours
of feather stars, inside the wreck lie small Lionfish and moray eels
waiting for their next meal. Further up on the reef there is a nice
wall with good hard and soft coral. Rooted at one end of the wall is
a large clam . Ask many people 'What is animal?' and they will say 'Something
that moves, or thinks or has eyes'. Believe it or not clams have eyes
too. Pass the shadow of your hand over the clam and it will close. On
it's flesh are small primitive eyes that can detect light. Carrying
on from the wall most guides lead their divers into the shallows of
Dungon Beach. Here majestic table corals spread to catch the rays of
the sun. Amongst them play many of the smaller fish that are so often
overlooked. Spectacled hawkfish, standing guard with their brilliant
marks around their eyes and the neon damsel fish, fish of such an irridescent
blue that it rarely seen in nature.
Ernies Point
and Cave
(5-28m)
/ Air / Nitrox
Alas Ernie is no
more. Ernie was a large grouper who lived in a hole at the bottom of
Ernies Point and has not been seen for many years, but his memory lives
on in the excellent site named after him. Ernies Cave is now the roost
for a large school of copper bellys. These small copper coloured fish
hang around the entrance to the cave during the day, marking it's entrance
much the same way as bats mark the entrances to caves on land. Sometimes
on the reef it is possible to see devil scorpionfish. Often pure white
they can be distinguished from scorpionfish by the orange and yellow
stripes under their pectoral fins. Many fish school above the
site, fusliers, suregeonfish and unicornfish all feeding in the current.
The area is very pretty and makes a nice gentle drift dive.
Monkey Wreck
(42-65m)
/ Air / Nitrox / Tech
/ Trimix
Sunk by all the
dive centres back in 1993, Monkey wreck is local wooden cargo boat of
about 90ft.resting on the bottom between 40 and 45 metres. Drifting
down into the deep water, the first view of the wreck is often an indistinct
shadow against the bottom. One of the more difficult dives in the area
it should be dived only by more experienced divers. Mostly collapsed
it still attracts many divers due the abundant fish life that shelters
within the hull. Large Emperoror angelfish, schools of blue triggerfish
and the oddly shaped baramundi cod all take shelter within the bare
bones of it's ribs. Mutlileveling up the reef, divers can spend more
time up on Monkey Beach. Amongst the hard corals in the shallows are
hidden a number of giant clams. These clams were transplanted here by
members of UP and divers from the Puerto Galera Dive Association. Originally
farmed in northern Luzon, they are part of an ambitious plan to restock
giant clams in the Philippines.
St Christopher
and Elma Jane Wrecks
(22-30m) / Air / Nitrox
Another locally
produced wreck St Christopher (or St Antoine after it's original French
owner) has become a favourite with many dive schools. At 22m long it
is fairly small but has over the past few years attracted an impressive
amount of marine life. Large lionfish prowl it's hold and often frogfish
can be found on deck. Batfish ,rabbit fish, puffer fish and porcupinefish
are often found sheltering under the hull. A welcome addition to the
dive site is the larger wreck of the Elma Jane. Sunk just two weeks
ago (March 7 , 2003) it an all steel inter island freighter. About 30
metres long and 80 tons, it stands uprights and is buoyed. The descent
down the line gives a great sight of the mast and bows rising high off
the bottom. It has already attracted lots of bait fish and a couple
of large emperor. An excellent subject for wide angle photography. A
short swim up the reef past St.Christopher takes you into Small La Laguna.
Here too Frogfish are common. Looking like dinosours they ambush their
prey. One of the fastest 'gulps' in nature they are able to swallow
almost the same size of fish as themselves. The reef here is great not
just for divers, but also for snorkelers. . Skindivers usually find
it best to enter the water from the jetty at the point, or through the
boat channel in front of The Full Moon Restaurant. The shallow areas
of the rest of the beach have almost complete coral cover making it
difficult to enter from these points.
Batangas
Channel and The Hill
(8-16m)
/ Air
Batangas channel
often goes unnoticed by many divers. At first glance it does not have
the classic beauty of areas near Escareco Point. But for the diver that
perserveres it may become one of their favourite dives. It is
a strange lunar landscape of twisted shapes and undulating plains. Large
sponges are host to nudibranches and other invertebrates, while gardens
of barrel sponges stand like sentinels in the current. Further into
the channel is one of the largest anemone colonies that it is possible
to see. Almost a hundred Clark's and Tomato anemonefish live on a colony
of anemones that covers more than ten square metres. These small (but
terrible) fish defend their anemones against all comers. In nature they
can live to be 6-10 years old, while there have been fish that lived
to 18 years old in aquarium. Since juvenile anemones are almost never
seen it has been suggested that anemones may live to be old as 100! The
Hill is also home to rare species of nudibranches, pygmy seahorses and
mandarin fish.
A short hop from
the main sites are the dives of Verde Island. About 40 minutes by Banca
from Sabang they make a nice day trip and an opprotunity to picnic on
the beach.
Verde Drop
Off
(5-75m)
/ Air / Nitrox / Tech / Trimix
A true wall dropping
to sixty metres plus, this site sometimes gets strong currents and large
waves. Best dove on nitrox, or with twin tanks, the wall at 40~50 metres
is decorated by enormous gorgonian fans in shades of white, yellow and
orange. Schools of bannerfish and surgeonfish swim past in the blue.
Occassionally larger fish have been seen here, such as eagle rays and
sharks. The wall is also covered in beautiful corals and invertebrates.
Frogfish, lionfish and scorpionfish are all fairly common here as are
banded sea snakes. Much like sharks, snakes receive a bad rap from most
non divers. Hollywood has done much to further the myth. Sharks can
down helicopters and evil snakes will track a family half way around
the world. The truth of course is that sea snakes are poisonous for
defense. Usually they ignore swimmers and divers, concentrating on looking
into holes for small fish and invertebrates and are often found in the
shallows of dives like the Verde Island Drop Off. The
Drop Off is now a designated reserve and there may be a local
dive fee to dive there
The Galleon
Site
(10-40m)
/ Air / Nitrox
In 1621 the pilot
of the Nuestra Senora Dela Vida was hung by his neck until he was dead.
His crime? To hit Verde Island and sink his Galleon. Fortunately for
us he managed to sink his ship in just five metres of water. In the
late seventies and early eighties the wreck was excavated by several
groups working with the National Museum. Now there is nothing left of
the structure of the wreck. In the sand however can be found shards
of ming porcelain, the trade ware that the Chinese and Vietnamese traders
sold to the Spanish. Slightly deeper on a shelf at 20 metres are larger
pieces of terracota jars. These jars served as cardboard boxes. Carrying
vegetables, grain, rice and smaller porcelain bowls. The sense of history
on this dive is fantastic. What diver doesn't dream of finding a treasure
chest?
The Washing
Machine
(12-45m)
/ Air / Nitrox
Ever wondered what
it feels like to be a dirty T-shirt? This dive will answer all those
questions. It feels great! The washing machine is a series of five canyons
between 28 and 12 metres. Usually dived less than 15m the diver is treated
to a rollercoaster ride when the current is running. Drifting into the
canyons you are spun from one side to another in the current. Moving
from one canyon to another can present problems and it is easy to be
swept away. Best to stay close to the bottom and watch the small fish
spin. Where they seem to be stationary is probably the best place to
cross the current. However good buoyancy control is required to protect
the corals. More experienced divers often chose to pull themselves forward
with their hands rather than risk kicking the reef with their fins.
This is more than acceptable if care is taken not to hold the living
coral, just the dead coral or rock.
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